2007 R&I Ivy Awards: University of California, Berkeley

Berkeley, Calif., has a tradition of bringing national attention to radical politics and farm-fresh, seasonal dining. Yet until four years ago, the city’s passionate embrace of progressive culinary philosophies barely had penetrated its heart: The University of California, Berkeley (UCB) campus.

By Kate Leahy, Associate Editor -- Restaurants & Institutions, 5/1/2007

Enrollment: 23,000 undergraduate; 10,000 graduate Resident students: 6,000 Cal Dining venues: 4 Retail locations: 7 Total F&B sales, including catering: $41.3 million Meals served annually: 3.5 million Foodservice staff: 262 full time; 40 managers; 102 part time, 180 student employees Contemporary design complements the Asian station at UCB’s remodeled residential dining commons, Cafe 3. Students dig into Cal Dining’s certified organic salad bar. Freshly prepared bouillabaisse showcases Cal Dining’s commitment to freshness and quality.

By Kate Leahy, Associate Editor

Berkeley, Calif., has a tradition of bringing national attention to radical politics and farm-fresh, seasonal dining. Yet until four years ago, the city’s passionate embrace of progressive culinary philosophies barely had penetrated its heart: The University of California, Berkeley (UCB) campus.

"This ran like a middle-of-the-country state college, not like a university in a food Mecca," recalls Shawn LaPean, Cal Dining director. "It was definitely not matching the expectations of the undergraduate population."

Hired four years ago with a mandate to change that, LaPean tackled the task of aligning campus dining with UCB’s heralded academic reputation. One colleague warned that he had made a career-damaging move. Fortunately—for the university and for LaPean—the opposite has been true.

Today Cal Dining thrives. With the fifth-most-popular Web site hosted by the university, Cal Dining has managed to integrate itself quickly into the fabric of UCB’s undergraduate student community.

Success comes down to taste, hospitality and market savvy.

"I don’t think any of us ‘feeds’ anyone: We serve them," LaPean says. Cal Dining staff strives to bring flavor and variety to the more than 25,000 meals served daily, an initiative underscored by the professionally trained chefs on campus as well as the friendly competition among dining halls. General managers, many of whom never had looked at a profit-and-loss statement before LaPean took over, now run their units like independent operations, vying for students with service and selection.

Chuck Davies, associate director of residential dining and a graduate of The Culinary Institute of America, joined the team two and a half years ago after 25 years at hotels and independent restaurants. He immediately made flavor a priority.

"There were periods where cooks put out food without tasting it," Davies says. "Now they taste everything. I also ask them to come from behind the counter to see how the food is displayed. Looking at the students as customers—that’s been the biggest change."

Just as impressive is the change in participation rates, especially from students who aren’t required to purchase a meal plan. While only 400 nonresident students bought meal plans in 2003, 2,000 elected to purchase meal plans in the last year, representing $2.5 million in revenue.

Participation rates reflect the improvement in quality as well as the university’s well-publicized movement to purchase more sustainable foodstuffs, which in turn have made students and faculty more supportive of campus dining. Astute menu planning and revenue growth (food–and-beverage sales increased 135% over the last four years to $41.3 million this year) shouldered most price increases. Even when Cal Dining switched to organic eggs, increasing the annual egg budget to $20,000, meal plans increased by 1 cent per meal rather than the anticipated 5 cents.

Celebrating Diversity

Growing participation also means that Cal Dining no longer has to manage students’ skipped meals as it did four years ago. This gives campus chefs and managers more time to plan for special monthly dinners billed as monotony breakers. Themed menus reflect students’ cultural diversity and curiosity, with ethnic fare served around Dewali, the Hindu festival of lights, and on Cambodian and Laotian New Year proving to be big hits. At other times, local restaurants, such as student favorite Top Dog, are invited to serve signature items on campus.

"They’ve made my four years here memorable as far as the experience and the food," says Cynthia Zhang, a Berkeley senior who graduates this year with a double major in Ethnic Studies and Asian American Studies. "They make an effort to smile and greet you."

Zhang, who has been involved with Cal Dining on student panels and as part of the residential living staff, recalls that the food has become more healthy and flavorful (she lauds a vegan eggplant Parmesan served at Clark Kerr Dining Commons) while added convenience, including flexible meal plans and later hours, proves that the staff listens and responds to student requests.

Davies is proud that students recognize the staff’s responsiveness. "I overheard someone in one of our dining commons say, ‘Send a note to Cal Dining; they’ll get back to you,’" he recalls.

Always Greener

Listening to student requests is not all that keeps Cal Dining ahead of the game, a series of progressive initiatives also helps.

As the first U.S. campus to add a certified organic kitchen and certified organic salad bars, UCB is notably ahead of most organic trends. Ann Mo, a senior majoring in nutrition, became part of the lengthy organic certification process when she interned with Cal Dining. She was amazed at the amount of paperwork required yet still found the process inspiring. "We are making a difference," she says. Plus, "the organic salad bar is excellent."

Cal Dining’s other green commitments include running the university’s only two green certified buildings (certified as Bay Area Green Businesses by Alameda County, Calif.), using biodegradable takeout containers, composting food waste, conserving water and investing in energy-efficient equipment. The actions have won praise from the city of Berkeley, which recognized Cal Dining with its Champion of Sustainability award last year.

Meanwhile, health initiatives remain critical. Cal Dining is nearly 100% trans fat free and Davies is striving to ensure that the last few products with trans fats are replaced by the end of this year.

See the Future

With four years under his belt, LaPean has become a UCB fixture, even relinquishing his red neckties because the color reminds others of rival (and 2006 Ivy winner) Stanford University in Palo Alto, Calif. But he’s not getting complacent. His team is too busy meeting the needs of students who will be tomorrow’s fine- dining patrons.

"Ten years ago, we tried to emulate casual dining. Now we’re going in the opposite direction," LaPean explains. "There’s no longer a [traditional] lunch daypart. Students want smaller portions. They’re more willing to experiment. They come here with the expectations that service should be something special."