Ahead of the Glass
Operators utilize everything from shot glasses to Pilsners as presentation tools.
By Erin J. Shea, Associate Editor -- Restaurants & Institutions, May 15, 2006
 At Sona, Chef-owner David Myers uses shot glasses for visual and culinary impact.  Simple glasses become dramatic vessels for tiramisù and almond granitas (bottom) at A Voce. |
Simplicity is taken seriously at A Voce.
From grilled octopus with peperonata, chorizo and lemon to Sicilian-style coffee granita, Chef-owner Andrew Carmellini targets an honest and uncomplicated approach for preparations and presentations at his New York City restaurant.
“People eat with their eyes,” explains Pastry Chef April Robinson. “The presentation of our dishes should be as simple as the food itself to give guests a good view of what they’re about to enjoy.”
To accomplish this, Robinson carefully ponders the best presentation pieces for desserts, often reaching for stemware instead of more-traditional plates and bowls. Inspiration often can be found behind the bar, her imagination sparked by the graceful shapes of tumblers and martini glasses.
“Glass makes it easy to focus on the dessert,” she says. “The glass is simply a vessel.”
Robinson isn’t the only one cross-utilizing serving pieces. Whether it’s to best execute a chef’s vision for a dish or to provide a unique aspect to the guest experience, operators are reaching for glasses of all shapes and sizes, using them for items as disparate as passion-fruit cake and carrot soup.
Best Shot
Oysters served in 4-inch-tall shot glasses is unexpected, playful and memorable—and adds a whimsical element diners enjoy.
“Oyster shooters are fun and cute in the shot glasses, but more importantly they taste better,” explains Marc Murphy, chef and owner of New York City’s Ditch Plains, a Long Island-style fish and oyster shack.
“In those small sips, flavors are portioned out,” he says. “If we served the same ingredients in a bowl, guests wouldn’t get that perfect dosage.”
This philosophy of melding form and function leads David Myers to make glassware integral to his presentation style. “Shooters are an almost foolproof way for the chef to get across what he wants,” says Myers, chef-owner of Sona in Los Angeles, which features a modern French menu.
“All the flavors come together in one powerful little bite rather than leaving it to the guest, who might not eat all the elements of the dish together,” he says.
Murphy thinks of his oyster shooters as a bridge between the beverage and food menus. Dropping East Coast oysters into tall, thin shot glasses, Murphy adds spicy house-made Bloody Mary mix and finishes the dish with a splash of vodka. The presentation—engaging, colorful and inviting—generates sales, he says.
At $5 a shot, they’re a profitable item, a truth helped by the fact that they buck the shared-plates trend. “We found that when people don’t have to share, they’re more likely to keep ordering more.”
Raw Talent
Ensuring that uncooked meat is eye-appealing takes finesse, especially when served tableside.
“People like to take their time when they’re eating something like Kobe beef tartare,” explains Ari Kastrati, general manager of Nobhill restaurant in the MGM Grand in Las Vegas. “The presentation has to be just right because raw meat on a plate will turn an unappetizing color.”
Kastrati says that Nobhill’s popular tartare preparation is helped by the stemless martini glass in which it’s served. After ingredients are mixed tableside, the tartare is placed in the glass, which then is nestled into an outer bowl filled with crushed ice.
“We didn’t want to serve this on an ordinary plate,” Kastrati says. “And using the stemless glass makes the entire presentation more elegant and pleasing, and it keeps the food appealing as well.”
Extra Kick
Come summer, when melons and berries are at their peak, Colin Turner turns them into menu gold.
At his two Tin Fish seafood restaurants in suburban Chicago, summer melon parfait has proved a big hit when weather warms, due in no small part to the Irish coffee mugs in which the dessert is served.
“People are a little freaked out when they first hear we have melon parfait,” Turner says. “But then they see it at another table, with all the layers visible in that clear-glass mug, and they think it looks cool and order one.”
Turner says guests get as big a kick from the presentation as they do from the dessert itself, though that realization hasn’t led him to purchase more expensive glassware.
“We have all of our glassware in stock,” he says. “I’m not out buying extra glassware. We don’t need to since what we have works so well already.”
Practical Matters
Though flutes, shot glasses and Pilsners can make enticing presentations, they also pave the way for a certain practicality.
“Trying to chill chinaware is a huge labor expense,” explains Patricia Yeo, executive chef-partner of Sapa in New York City. “Shot glasses can keep a dish chilled for a lot longer and take up less space in the refrigerator.”
Yeo says that she favors espresso cups for soups, citing how self-contained they are as serving vessels. “I don’t have to worry about replacing as much silverware, and the server isn’t worrying about finding the paraphernalia that goes along with soup,” she says.
But it’s her final observation that perhaps makes the most sense operationally: “Most of all, I don’t have to invest in extra china.”
Tough Breaks
There are inherent advantages to double-duty glassware, but they come at a cost: Twice the use means twice the likelihood of damage.
“Breakage is a big problem for us,” explains David Myers, chef-owner of Sona. “Even a slight chip or crack makes it no longer usable.”
A practical approach to buying can help skirt the issue. It’s one thing to select a delicate brandy snifter for after-dinner service of costly cordials. But if the same container is earmarked for ice-cream sundaes, a sturdier version will most likely prove to be a better choice.
To lessen the problem, Myers suggests that operators work closely with staff to establish a work environment where special care is given to fragile pieces. “These things happen with normal wear and tear,” Myers says. “But we try our best to pay special attention to the issue of glassware with our staff and give them incentive to care.”
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