Big Apple

American apple pie has more variations than there are stars on the flag

By Laura Yee, Senior Editor -- Restaurants & Institutions, 5/15/2003

Few foods evoke Americana the way apple pie does. Layers of sliced apples encased in flaky crust create such a beloved dessert that it is the most-offered pie on menus in all foodservice segments, according to R&I’s Menu Census.

Part of apple pie’s popularity lies in its ability to share a plate with a host of complementary partners, most notably vanilla ice cream but also cinnamon ice cream, Cheddar cheese or caramel sauce. Apple pie also lends itself to interpretation, providing ample room for creativity.

“You can do so much with apple pie to make it modern but still maintain its traditional appeal,” says Don Dickinson, executive chef for Embassy Suites Hotel in Sacramento, Calif. “It’s popular because people can relate to it.”

At foodservice operations such as Harvard University in Cambridge, Mass., where desserts and traditions are highly valued, the ideal apple pie is one that stays truest to its most familiar form: a flaky crust holding tender apples in thickened juices that have been balanced with lemon, sugar and cinnamon.

Other operators can’t resist deconstructing tradition and adding twists that range from subtle to assertive.

At Cap City Fine Diner and Bar in Columbus, Ohio, pie crust is a vehicle for innovation. Ground almonds added to the dough offer flavor and texture, while sugar in the crust provides sweetness.

The pie’s filling offers opportunity for experimenting with apple varieties, though tart, crisp baking apples provide optimal results. Cinnamon, freshly grated nutmeg or Asian five-spice powder can be sprinkled into the mix.

Rather than a double crust, some bakers prefer streusel on top. At New York City-based Cosi, the chain’s cafes top apple pie with cinnamon-sugar crunch and serve the dessert with vanilla ice cream, whipped cream and caramel sauce. Nuts, such as almonds, hazelnuts and walnuts, also appear frequently in a streusel mix of butter, flour and sugar. For desserts served at Embassy Suites’ Bistro 100, Dickinson creates an apple pie using puff pastry and then tops it with streusel.

Other innovations can include complementary components. At Granita in Malibu, Calif., apple liqueur spikes caramel sauce that is drizzled on the classic dessert.

For a twist on the popular à la mode pairing, Mayflower Inn in Washington, Conn., tops apple pie with maple ice cream, while catering services at Auburn University in Auburn, Ala., accompany apple pie with cinnamon ice cream.

The temptation to introduce familiar but unexpected flavors to the classic pie can be difficult to resist. At Prime in Las Vegas, spiced-cider ice cream accompanies the apple dessert. Apple-cinnamon sorbet, apple-cider crème anglaise or caramel cider also serve as flavorful accents.

“Apple pie is a slice of America,” says Greg Hernandez, vice president of foodservice for Newport Beach, Calif.-based Ruby’s Diner, which serves the dessert in its traditional guise. “There’s always room for the classic version and the more-innovative interpretations.”

Deep-Dish Granny Smith Apple Pie
Cap City Fine Diner and Bar, Columbus, Ohio

Yield: 8 slices

Flour	5¼ cups
Ground, blanched, almonds	½ cup
Sugar	3 Tbsp. plus 2 cups
Salt	2 tsp.
Cold butter, cubed	12 oz.
Ice water	½ cup
Cinnamon	3/4 Tbsp.
Nutmeg	¼ cup
Granny Smith apples, peeled, cored, sliced	20
Lemon juice	¼ cup
Streusel topping (recipe follows)	3½ cups
Caramel sauce as needed

To make dough, mix 41/2 cups flour, almonds, 3 Tbsp. sugar and salt. Work in butter and add water until small crumbs form. Roll into a disk and refrigerate.
Combine remaining flour, sugar, cinnamon and nutmeg. Toss apples with lemon juice, then toss with flour mixture.
Line 10-in. springform pan with dough. Fill with apples, pressing them down. Top with streusel and bake at 350F for 60 to 90 minutes or until apples are tender. Serve with caramel sauce.

Streusel Topping