Contemporary Classics: Calling Calamari

Twists on preparations and sauces keep the fried classic first in line

By Laura Yee, Special to R&I -- Restaurants & Institutions, 6/1/2004

Crispy rings of calamari boast a loyal following, so faithful that the fried preparation is the most accepted rendition among guests.

“There’s something about calamari being crispy and fried that people cannot resist,” says Thomas Peterlik, executive chef for catering and residential dining at Yale University in New Haven, Conn.

Calamari (the Italian term for squid) is served stuffed, grilled, sautéed and often included in a pastiche of seafood for pasta toppings, soups and stews, but its appeal is not nearly as far reaching as when it is coated and deep-fried, operators say. To keep devotees happily crunching, chefs—especially in commercial segments other than quick service—are updating the classic with zesty sauces and twists on preparation.

Spicy Crackling Calamari Salad is a popular entrée at Phoenix-based The Bamboo Club Asian Bistro locations.

Wayne Schick, corporate executive chef for Columbus, Ohio-based Cameron Mitchell Restaurants, is well versed in the popularity of fried calamari. Eight of Mitchell’s nine concepts menu squid, and approximately 76,000 pounds of calamari are purchased annually for the operator’s 22 restaurants.

Schick works to craft renditions that provide bold, contrasting flavors and textures. For example, Mitchell’s Fish Market recently introduced Cracklin’ Five-Spice Calamari Kung Pao. The seafood is marinated, flash-fried, tossed with spicy garlic brown sauce, topped with chopped peanuts and green onion and wrapped in lettuce. At Mitchell’s Asian-themed Molly Woo’s, tempura batter gives calamari a different texture and flavor. The appetizer is paired with ponzu dipping sauce.

Before hitting the fryer at California State University, Monterey Bay (a Sodexho USA-managed account), strips of calamari are encrusted with coconut, enhancing the meat’s natural sweetness and adding an additional crunchy element.

Taking a Dip
Orlando, Fla.-based Red Lobster offers an appetizer of batter-fried calamari and vegetables and enlivens the mélange with two sauces: warm marinara and cilantro-spiked ranch. Its Italian sister concept, Olive Garden, serves its breaded and fried calamari appetizer with marinara and garlic-mustard aioli. The Mill Valley, Calif.-based Piatti chain chooses roasted-tomato sauce and lemon-garlic aioli as accompaniments.

Spicy batter and lime dipping sauce give Blue Ginger’s Crispy Calamari flavor and punch.

An orange-flavored tartar sauce is paired with battered and fried calamari at New York University’s The Violet Cafe (managed by Aramark) in New York City.

A signature appetizer at Blue Ginger in Wellesley, Mass., calamari is dipped in a bold Thai lime dipping sauce before the rings and tentacles are dredged in a mixture of all-purpose and sweet-potato flours. Seasoning salt with white pepper, cumin, fennel and coriander is sprinkled on the squid and it is served with a dipping sauce at owner Ming Tsai’s homage to East meets West.

Also bold are the sauces that accompany calamari at Flying Fish in Seattle—honey jalapeño and cilantro oil. Yale’s Peterlik serves calamari with the familiar marinara, but for extra zip he also offers a fra diavolo sauce. Another layer of flavor, however, comes from marinating the seafood in garlic and lemon juice before it is dredged in flour for frying.

“Squid is so mild and has a very appealing texture,” Peterlik says. “It takes on whatever flavor you give it so it is very versatile.”

Tender Touch
Squid—better known by its more familiar Italian name, calamari—is designed for kitchen speed. To maintain its tender, slightly chewy texture, calamari must be cooked quickly with a careful hand. Overcooking, especially at high temperatures, results in a tough, rubbery texture. Gentle braising breaks down the muscle, rendering the meat tender.

Regardless of cooking methods, tenderness can be dictated by quality, operators say. As expected, baby squid is more tender but prone to the same pitfalls as mature squid when it is overcooked.

Wayne Schick, corporate executive chef for Columbus, Ohio-based Cameron Mitchell Restaurants, purchases domestic squid because he says it is the most consistent, an important consideration for his restaurants. The product he prefers is frozen, which is practical for high-volume operations; fresh is highly perishable and requires thorough cleaning.

To ensure tenderness, Schick marinates squid in milk or buttermilk for 48 hours, using milk’s lactic acid as a tenderizer.

“Check all the squid from the purveyor, Schick recommends. Calamari should be milky white with no bruising. Yellowing, he says, is a sign of age.

“But calamari can look good but still be very tough no matter what,” he adds. “You’ve got to cook with it. The harvesting and handling of calamari has a lot to do with quality.”

Out of the Fryer
There’s no doubt that fried calamari enjoys widespread favor, but operators say the popular member of the mollusk family has other winning preparations.

Mark Grosz, chef-owner of Oceanique in Evanston, Ill., says guests appreciate the flavors from grilling. He prefers using baby calamari because it is especially tender. He pairs the calamari with shrimp and an ocean salad of daikon, watermelon radish, avocado and three types of Japanese caviar.

Other inspirations:

Chorizo-stuffed calamari
Brasa, Seattle

Pan-fried giant calamari layered with eggplant, tomato, mozzarella and oregano
Cibo, Monterey, Calif.

Gulf shrimp, calamari, mussels and clams in fiery tomato, garlic, parsley and olive oil broth with thin spaghetti
Mediterranean Restaurant, Boulder, Colo.

Shrimp-stuffed calamari with saffron sauce
Yale University, New Haven, Conn.

The Big Dipper
A boost of flavor, whether to add heat, acid or texture to fried calamari, easily can come from existing or prepackaged sauces and condiments. Bold marinades, slathers for sandwiches or finishing sauces for entrées can do double duty. Here are some operator-inspired ideas.

Marinara and basil pesto aioli with calamari fritti
Romano’s Macaroni Grill, multiple locations

Spicy aioli with fritto misto of calamari, shrimp and vegetables
South Park Seafood Grill and Wine Bar, Portland, Ore.

Red-pepper romesco with Gina’s favorite crispy calamari
Verbena, Oakland, Calif.

Soy vinaigrette with crispy calamari
Winnie’s Oriental Garden, Orlando, Fla.

Roasted red-pepper-garlic vinaigrette, balsamic syrup, capers and roasted garlic with fritto misto of fried calamari and spring vegetables
Yarrow Bay Beach Cafe, Kirkland, Wash.

Laura Yee is a Chicago-based freelance writer.