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Four Stars: Want Fries With That?

Crinkled, curly, thick, thin, seasoned or just salted, french fries continue to hold sway on menus, sitting comfortably anywhere from quick service to fine dining

By Margaret Casey, Special to R&I -- Restaurants & Institutions, 9/15/2004

Jack's Natural Cut Fries

Jack in the Box, San Diego. Touted as the only skin-on fries offered by a major QSR chain, they debuted at nearly 2,000 units in July as part of ongoing efforts to upgrade the menu and draw more customers. Besides the distinctive bits of skin on either end, the spuds are sliced bigger and thicker than the fries they replaced (although seasoned curly fries remain on the menu). Small, medium and large orders are available.

Tuscan Fries With Vegetables

Coco Pazzo, Chicago. Potatoes mix it up a bit, sharing both the spotlight and deep-fryer with other seasonal veggies that strike the chef's fancy. Zucchini, red onions and yellow squash are among the favorites, each adding different taste and textural notes. Mounded into a great pyramid, à la carte orders are seasoned with Parmesan, fresh rosemary, sage and, of course, salt. The net result is an Italian accent for an American standard.

Crisp Idaho Fries

Métrazur, New York City. Bags or boxes may be fine for fast food but not for a Charlie Palmer outpost in Grand Central Terminal. Here, they arrive with a little status, in a sheath of waxed paper tucked in a wire cone. The crispy treats, speckled with snips of fresh chives, are made for double dipping-here with mayonnaise and ketchup. Sold à la carte in the dining room, they also appear on the lounge menu.

Seasoned Fries

American Express, New York City (a Sodexho USA account). Noontime brings a crush of diners to the company cafe-teria that serves an office population of 3,400, many of whom add fries to burger or sandwich orders. Executive Chef Ken Grogg uses plain-cut fries that are dusted with a spicy blend of seasonings, with just enough pep to rev up without overwhelming the potato taste.

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