Interface: Thomas Keller

With candor and openness, the storied chef talks about his relentless drive to excel�in food, service and setting.

By Patricia B. Dailey, Editor-in-Chief -- Restaurants & Institutions, 3/15/2007

Thomas Keller is a towering figure in the world of great chefs, so revered that he seems very nearly mythic. One of only two chefs to have two Michelin three-star restaurants—The French Laundry in Yountville, Calif., and Per Se in New York City—Keller’s perfectionism in cooking and front-of-the-house skills stirs admiration and interest. Even as his empire grows—he also has Bouchon, Bouchon Bakery and Ad Hoc in Yountville, Bouchon Bakery in New York City and Bouchon and Bouchon Bakery in Las Vegas—Keller’s eye for excellence never winks, wavers or falters. He is, in essence, the near-perfect embodiment of the 21st-century American chef, combining culinary, entrepreneurial and business personas, seamlessly and elegantly, into an exquisitely rendered portrait of success. And while dining at his restaurants is a rare experience reserved for a small handful, his views on food, service and the industry resonate in any setting.

Q. While The French Laundry was closed [for two weeks in January], a new, larger kitchen was installed. The staff must be ecstatic.

A. We continue to evolve and improve. It’s a process that’s ongoing. But yes, they seem to like it. They’re very happy.

Q. Most people would say The French Laundry was pretty close to perfect already. What areas to improve do you see that others don’t?

A. We see a lot of things—and I really do mean we. It’s all very collaborative here. Everyone can have an impact. It’s a collective process. For instance, my sous-chef and I were looking at butter today, how we wrap it, wondering if there’s a better way to do it. Maybe there’s nothing wrong with how it is now but we talked about it. One of our great assets is that we’re observers.

Q. When Dr. Tim Ryan [president of The Culinary Institute of America] introduced you at the CIA’s Worlds of Flavor conference in November, he called you "The Man, this generation’s Paul Bocuse." That’s high praise. How did it sound?

A. It’s wonderful to hear someone I respect and admire so much say that. It’s hard to embrace 100% what he says, though. My modesty doesn’t let me. Paul Bocuse? Come on. He’s a legend. Professionally, he has had a huge, lasting impact on our world. It’s hard for me to believe I will have that.

Q. It’s fair to say that nearly every serious person starting a culinary career would love to work in your kitchen. What do you hope that those who get the chance will learn from their time with you?

Keller A. Mostly, I want to try to teach that in cooking, it’s a lot of repetition. I hope that message resonates with the young generation. They have a tendency to say, ‘I made this croissant today. What am I going to make tomorrow?’ But you have to make croissants 10,000 times to really understand the process. Repetition is a big part of the learning. You have to enjoy it, take the time to do it and appreciate that moment. Next time you do it, it is moving up, expanding your abilities. Then when you can do it without thinking about the process, you’re liberated, free to improve it or change it.

Q. I’m going to read something to you. "When you acknowledge, as you must, that there is no such thing as perfect food, only the ideal of it, then the real purpose of striving toward perfection becomes clear: to make people happy. That’s what cooking is all about." That’s a quote from The French Laundry cookbook’s introduction; do you still feel that way?

A. I said that pretty recently, maybe five years ago and I’ve been cooking for 31 years so no, it hasn’t changed. Perfection for me is making people happy about their experience here but it also is making yourself happy. And there are great moments of happiness in sharing.

Q. You also wrote about the pure satisfaction of cooking every day, of turning a carrot, cutting a salmon—working with food. In your present position, you don’t get a chance to do that much anymore; is that hard for you?

A. I miss it every day. Certainly my life has changed with Per Se and [restaurants in] Las Vegas. I used to be at The French Laundry every day and those were great moments. There came a point at which I had to transition though. You can’t physically do it all. But when I see the kitchen working, I can’t tell you how proud I am, and a little envious, too. Every night, I try to tie on an apron and do something in the kitchen. I am very happy with where I am, though, and very blessed to have people who can support that philosophy.

Q. What is your philosophy about food and restaurants?

A. It goes a little further than that but it really is about what is on the plate: what is its sense of luxury. It’s about the guest having an experience that is driven by someone else. Part of that is not having to make choices—that’s why we continue to have set menus at The French Laundry and Per Se. As a guest, you can say, ‘Cook for me. Pour my wine. Give me food and the experience.’ Making choices for them is a kind of release for the guest.

Q. Both food and service at your restaurants are very highly praised. Which of the two is harder for you to master?

A. Service is much harder. In the kitchen, you can redo something if it is not right. If you drop a plate in the dining room, say something wrong, pour water incorrectly, it stays as part of the experience. The dining room always has to be on the ball. But the front of the house might say it’s the kitchen.

Q. Business-wise, are there things you don’t think you’re especially good at?

A. A good leader knows what he doesn’t know and can identify people who can do those things. That’s part of my success; I know what areas to get help with. Failures make you who you are. They’ve freed me to give up some of the financial and service aspects so I can focus on food.

Q. When you look to hire someone for the kitchen, what are the non-negotiable traits, things that absolutely must be there?

A. Passion is overused, although there is a tendency to focus on it. But it can die. I look for desire. That doesn’t go away. It is in you forever. Prior culinary experience is not so important. They can learn those skills.

Q. What is the best advice you would give them as they carve out their culinary careers?

A. To have perseverance, not to give up. Perseverance pushed me forward when things weren’t going well. There were some very hard times.

Q. What do you consider to be your biggest challenge as an owner/operator?

A. To sift through opportunities and figure out our next move—or if we have a next move. We have extraordinary teams at our restaurants. They’re young and they want to move forward and I can relate to that. At this stage, I do what I do for the staff; they contribute so much that I want them to have more opportunities to grow and develop and succeed. If it’s all about me then what have I really accomplished?

Q. How do you keep your Las Vegas restaurant operating at the same level of excellence?

A. I have confidence in the team in Las Vegas. They are very dedicated, motivated and loyal. They’re caring people who are there because they want to make guests happy. I never let someone say, ‘This is Las Vegas.’ It is Bouchon.

Q. What is your view on the new, avant-garde style of cooking?

A. I’m a traditionalist; food has to touch me. Someone like Ferran Adrià has a more intellectual approach. If he sautés a piece of fish, he wants to do something different the next time. If I sauté fish, I want to do it again, only find better, fresher fish, a different sauté pan and perfect what I am doing.

Q. Your restaurants always get terrific reviews. You’re alone in getting such positives from Michelin. Are stars important to you?

A. They’re important in that people recognize them as justification for who and what we are. They allow me to attract better staff and they bring a sense of accomplishment for the team.

Q. What is your true north, the point that orients you?

A. The guests. They always draw me back. It’s so meaningful. Last night, for instance, we had a young couple here on their honeymoon; they were just beaming with enjoyment from the experience. That brings me back. And when I sit at the table with the staff and talk about food and wine. Those are grounding moments.