Four Stars: Lickety Splits

Banana splits stretch beyond their ice-cream-parlor roots in irresistible formats comfortingly familiar and refreshingly artistic.

By Allison Perlik, Senior Editor -- Restaurants & Institutions, 5/15/2007

Banana split Unconventional Banana Split
American Bounty Restaurant, Hyde Park, N.Y. Creativity takes center stage in this elegant split from The Culinary Institute of America’s regionally focused restaurant. Banana sorbet capped with brandied cherries rests atop tuiles lined with pineapple carpaccio. Tempura-fried bananas tossed in cinnamon and sugar nestle with scoops of chocolate ice cream.

Banana split Banana Split
Summit at Broadmoor, Colorado Springs, Colo. At the resort’s newest restaurant, Pastry Chef Remy Funfrock’s stylized presentation lines piped vanilla ice cream with brûléed banana slices. Balanced above the rows is a sweet almond cookie topped with vanilla whipped cream and a lacy orange tuile. Strawberry coulis punctuates the presentation.

Banana split Banana Split
Brigham Young University, Provo, Utah. Vanilla, dark chocolate and strawberry ice creams made at the campus creamery line up in traditional fashion and are crowned with chocolate syrup, strawberry purée and vanilla-flavored whipped cream. Sliced fresh strawberries and crushed pineapple lend fruity flair, while almonds and toasted pecans deliver welcome crunch.

Banana split Brûléed Banana Split
Elaine’s on Franklin, Chapel Hill, N.C. Chef-owner Bret Jennings dusts halved bananas with sugar and caramelizes them with a small propane torch to add depth to the standard ice cream treat. Caramel and chocolate sauces are drizzled over the dish, which is garnished with crumbled pistachio brittle, whipped cream and a jaunty maraschino cherry.

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