Best Food Forward: Chain Restaurant Menus

New is not enough on chain menus anymore. The question always is, “What’s next?”

By Patricia B. Dailey, Editor-in-Chief -- Restaurants & Institutions, 7/15/2007

A Google search for "molecular gastronomy" turned up 250,000 results in a blisteringly fast .05 seconds. That’s a lot of copy on a trend that some excitable food mappers are certain is the culinary scene’s next Really Big Thing, a force so monumentally large, they say, that the foundational teachings of Carême, Escoffier and all who follow in their footsteps one day will cease to matter.

Zeroing in on its experimental, laboratory aspects, one source describes this new gastronomy as "the science of deliciousness." Scores of others breathlessly enthuse over all the mind- and palate-bending innovations that practitioners of this so-called "avant-garde" cuisine reverently stir up. Freed from tradition, this new style of cooking relies on moxie, irreverence and an entirely different pantry, one stocked with hydrocolloids and methyl cellulose, transglutaminase and sodium alginate—ingredients used the way most chefs reach for butter, shallots and tufts of fresh tarragon.

A simple reality check helps to put this hocus-pocus cooking into a larger, industry-wide perspective. That same monstrous search engine quickly reveals that Big Macs and Whoppers, Dairy Queen Blizzards, Frappuccinos—even Bloomin’ Onions and Grand Slam Breakfasts churn out vastly more results on Google. These—and others of their kind—are among the menu items that feed and satisfy a vast and hungry populace; they represent styles of foods that connect with consumer taste preferences, build brand affinity and sustain the endless buzz of interest in restaurants.

On any given day, a million ideas—some interesting, others crazy and many of them deliciously inventive and built to last—spring forth from all corners of foodservice, creating and sustaining a continuous evolution that keeps the restaurant world interesting, buoyant and bustling with new business and growth opportunities. Even with all of the attention that is showered on such far-flung trends as molecular gastronomy and experimental cuisines, it’s hard to dispute the level of innovation that thrives throughout the industry, and most especially within the major chains. Recognizing the depth of their imprint and the enormous affection they have built with their customers, this entire issue of R&I gives due props to the unmatched R&D activities seen at the Top 400 chains.

Even with all the menu classics—the Munchkins and Egg McMuffins, Extra Crispy Chicken, Five-Way Chili and ButterBurgers—that exist, helping to build and sustain the success in these industry-leading brands, the demand for menu innovation is relentless. "That’s good but what’s next?" is on everyone’s mind—consumers and Wall Street alike. Product cycles are startlingly short and so are interest and attention spans. Today’s new beverage rollout, burger, salad or taco threaten to be old and outdone in record time, made archaic by agile competitors and even newer ideas.

Keeping menus current by grasping the science of deliciousness as it applies to chains is essential to brand vitality; as evidenced by the rampant creativity seen in the Top 400, it’s a core competency exhibited by many brands.