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Four Stars: Raw (Tuna) Talent

Playful approaches to top-grade tuna presented raw and pristine speak to chefs’ ingenuity and diners’ interests.

By Allison Perlik, Senior Editor -- Restaurants & Institutions, 9/1/2007

Garlic BreadTunapica
Asia de Cuba, multiple locations. The Latin American ground-meat preparation called picadillo inspires an adventuresome approach to diced tuna. Toasted almonds, currants and coconut join the tuna between crisp won tons; the soy-lime dressing features shichimi togarashi, cayenne, coriander, curry powder and mustard seeds, among other spices.

Garlic BreadTuna Tartare
Nana, Dallas. Executive Chef Anthony Bombaci’s colorful geometric plate presents cubed tuna drizzled with bright orbs of passion-fruit coulis, sweet chile sauce, soy-sesame glaze and olive oil. Wasabi, a natural companion, takes a nontraditional form in an ice-cream quenelle carrying a sesame tuile. Thinly sliced green onions and cilantro finish and freshen the dish.

Garlic BreadTuna Tartare
Morton’s, The Steakhouse, multiple locations. The acidity of tomatoes and the creaminess of avocados supply nicely contrasting complements for coarsely chopped tuna in this tidy timbale at the upscale steakhouse chain. Sesame oil, soy sauce and Thai spices season the star ingredient, which is sprinkled with black sesame seeds.

Garlic BreadTuna Tartare
A Fish Called Avalon, Miami Beach, Fla. Angular layers of crisp, yellow malanga (a root vegetable similar to taro) chips distinguish Executive Chef and General Manager Joe Monteiro’s mainstay starter. Gazpacho vinaigrette and basil flavor the top-grade tuna, which is tossed with white-truffle oil, basil and yellow peppers and crowned with wasabi-infused caviar.

 

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