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Openers: Less is Amore

Cameron Mitchell does Tuscany in Columbus with the opening of small-plates-centric Marcella’s.

By Christine LaFave, Associate Editor -- Restaurants & Institutions, 10/1/2007


Concept
: Marcella’s
Location: Columbus, Ohio
Opened: May 29, 2007
Owner: Cameron Mitchell Restaurants
Cuisine: Small-plate Italian, pizza, Italian classics, wine bar
Executive Chef: Ian Rough Footprint: 5,000 square feet
Average Check: $36 Seating: 124 Staff: 96
Key Design Elements: Red-leather banquettes, mismatched chairs, wine bottles lining ledge of recessed wall in dining area

BENVENUTO, OHIO: Cameron Mitchell, president of Columbus, Ohio-based Cameron Mitchell Restaurants, modeled Marcella’s after the family-run restaurants he and his family enjoy in Tuscany. "You step off the sidewalk and you’re in Europe," he says. "It’s got a little romance attached to it." Closely spaced tables and long banquettes add to a convivial atmosphere.

SHARE THE LOVE: Eschewing the Stateside interpretation of Italian as "big huge plates" of sauced-up food, Marcella’s focuses on simple preparations of shareable dishes and favorite Tuscan entrées. Apple and truffle honey balance pecorino’s pungent profile in a hot small plate that suggests an Italian spin on queso fundido. A braised lamb shank, at $18, is complemented by white-bean ragù and house-made pancetta.

HOME SWEET HOME: Smaller in size than Cameron Mitchell’s other concepts, Marcella’s already is No. 1 in sales per square foot.


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