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Four Stars: Crack a Smile

Eggs need never be boring. Omelets, especially when folded around enticing fillings, offer plenty of potential for intrigue.

By Allison Perlik, Senior Editor -- Restaurants & Institutions, 11/1/2007

Garlic BreadGrandmere’s Potato Omelet
Masraff’s, Houston.
This Sunday-brunch staple at Tony Masraff’s New American restaurant starts with thinly sliced russet potatoes browned lightly in butter. Chopped green onions and parsley join the mix next, followed by eggs and milk—whipped until frothy—and a touch more butter. The mixture is covered and cooked over low- to-medium heat and turned once.

Garlic BreadSouth American Frittata
SushiSamba, multiple locations.
Two types of sausage—garlicky Portuguese linguiça and Mexican chorizo—spice up this dish on the Japanese-Peruvian-Brazilian hotspot’s family-style brunch menu. The meats team with eggs, hearts of palm, asparagus and shaved queso blanco in a cast-iron skillet; the dish is baked at 350F and then finished under the broiler.

Garlic BreadBacon Lover’s Supreme Omelet
Dunkin’ Donuts, multiple locations.
This third entry in the Canton, Mass.-based chain’s Supreme Omelet line invites thick-cut pepper bacon into the mix. Three crisp slices crown an egg patty studded with mushrooms, red and green bell peppers, potatoes, and Monterey Jack and Swiss cheeses, topped with Colby-Jack cheese on a freshly baked croissant.

Garlic BreadTortilla de Cangrejo
Cuba Libre Restaurant & Rum Bar, Philadelphia and Atlantic City.
Sweet jumbo lump crabmeat marries with manchego cheese, shallots and asparagus to elevate the morning classic far above ordinary in Concept Chef Guillermo Pernot’s recipe. Rich hollandaise spiked with guajillo chile and Worcestershire sauce finishes the folded package with pizzazz.

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