Vodka: Clearly, Cool as Ice

Think vodka’s become too mainstream? See how restaurants and bars are elevating the crisp, clean spirit’s populist image.

By Allison Perlik, Senior Editor -- Restaurants & Institutions, 1/28/2008

Despite hands-down status as the country’s most-popular spirit, vodka has become to mixologists what chicken is to chefs. It’s always a crowd pleaser and plays well with other flavors, but among those who consider themselves connoisseurs (is there a spirits equivalent of “foodie”?), stronger-flavored liquors such as whiskey and tequila are more-stylish choices.

Yet the prevailing American attitude that anything too popular can’t possibly be chic doesn’t fly for restaurants and bars, which must pay heed to the popular vote to stay in business. That’s why some operators are finding ways to appease both mainstream drinkers and the highbrow beverage set by proving that vodka can indeed be sophisticated--and even sexy.

At The Raymond Restaurant, a fine-dining venue in Pasadena, Calif., adventurous diners can choose a five-course tasting menu paired with artisan, infused vodkas instead of wine. Current duos include squab breast with mashed root vegetables and organic mushrooms matched with grapefruit-honey vodka.

“Vodka is a really cleansing flavor,” says Executive Chef Chris Felippa. “We serve intense sauces and foods, and when you take a bite and then a drink, it cleanses the palate.”

The emergence of specialty and artisanal vodkas such as those featured on The Raymond’s menu is playing a big role in showcasing the spirit’s swankier side. Several producers turn out upscale infusions boasting unconventional flavors such as pumpkin pie, black truffle and acai-blueberry, while a new crop of small-batch distilleries are making vodkas with all manner of local ingredients, from Hudson Valley apples to Wisconsin wheat to Idaho potatoes.

Such local connections inspired Chef-owner Jean Joho of Brasserie Jo in Chicago to host a recent reception spotlighting a southwest Michigan distillery that makes vodka from the region’s grapes.

“I like promoting local producers, and vodka fits the style and atmosphere and fun of the restaurant,” says Joho, who created a themed pairing menu for the event. “When I hear vodka I think of Russia—a cold country; richer, heavier food.”

Accordingly, hors d’oeuvres such as Red Beet Vodka Borscht, Vodka-Cured Smoked Salmon and Pepper Vodka Beef were passed alongside vodka cocktails including An American in Paris (vodka and elderflower liqueur topped with sparkling wine and a spritz of orange flower water) and the Martini Jo (a French apéritif of red wine, brandy, fruits and herbs mixed with vodka and a touch of orange zest).

Taking the idea of building business around vodka to an entirely different level is Larry Nicola (r.), chef-owner at Nic’s Beverly Hills. A given day finds as many as 80 varieties on hand at the see-and-be-seen restaurant and martini bar, where customers can sample premium brands in their most pristine state—ice cold—in a tasting room dubbed “the Vodbox” (below).

The 9 -by-12-foot space with stainless-steel walls and large windows is actually a freezer kept at 28F. For customers with their own prized bottles, Nicole rents out 30 storage boxes inside the room. Guests don borrowed faux fur coats to keep warm during tastings: 2 shots for $21 or three for $30.

“Tasting vodka isn’t like tasting wine. Wine you taste on the upper part of your mouth and nose; vodka you taste on the back of the throat and tongue, so when you take a shot, you really feel the whole experience going all the way down your throat,” says Nicola, who recently prepared a dinner with vodka pairings at the James Beard House in New York City.

The vodka-heavy martini menu at Nic’s ranges from unusual concoctions such as the Latin Lover (jalapeño infused vodka with olive brine and jalapeño-stuffed olives) to the straightforward Maytag Repairman (top-shelf vodka with Maytag blue cheese-stuffed olives).

“I believe a martini is the best appetizer,” Nicola says. “It washes down the day, provides some attitude adjustment, gets you ready for dinner and gives you a nice little buzz. That’s really what everybody wants from a cocktail.”