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Nothing But Truffle
February 5, 2007

February 5, 2007
There’s just nothing like ripe, mature Oregon truffles.

For those poor souls out there who haven’t tasted truffles or don’t know about them, this prized culinary delicacy is a mushroom-like fungus that grows underground near the roots of trees. Fortunately for me, the Pacific Northwest is fertile ground for truffles, although among the 30 species available here, only two whites and one black variety are harvested commercially (for more details on where and how they are found, check out this article from Audubon magazine).

Once again you are asking, so what? Well, Oregon truffles can range from $75 per pound to $300 per pound wholesale. Italian and French truffles can range between $800 per pound to over $4,000 per pound. Starting to sound like a good deal? Also, Oregon truffles have a different flavor profile than European varieties. Yes, they all have a dark, musky spirit, but Oregon black truffles have an initial tropical fruit component with a smoky darkness, while Oregon white truffles have a garlicky, buttery essence. They're not better or worse, but different and worth seeking out.

Recently, I was the guest chef for a dinner that was part of the second annual Oregon Truffle Festival. The dinner gave me an opportunity to continue stretching my wine-and-food pairing muscles and also to play with the flavor-and-plating combinations of a few dishes that will probably show up on the Terroir menu, specifically, the beef short-rib “osso buco” and the artisan goat cheese-and-white truffle cheesecake. (See Chef Stu's complete Oregon Truffle Festival Menu.)

As far as pairings, one I’m especially proud of is ravioli with Dungeness crab, black truffles, spinach and leeks in hot-and-sour crab consommé, served with a merlot from the local vineyard hosting the event. The fruitiness of the wine is accentuated both by the red wine in the consommé and the tropical fruit overtones of the truffles, while its earthiness plays off the leeks while balancing the oceanic saltiness of the crab. Simply lovely, in my opinion.

And the journey continues.

Cheers!
Stu

Posted by Stu Stein on February 5, 2007 | Comments (0)