Why Culinary Tourism Matters

Walk into a grocery store in Hawaii and you’ll smell it: the sweet-salty essence of a soy-ginger marinade.

It’s coming from the refrigerated display of poke (pronounced po-keh), in which fish, ranging from raw ahi, to smoked marlin and cooked octopus, is cubed, mixed with a vaguely Japanese, vaguely Filipino soy marinade, and sold by the pint. It’s not necessarily a delicacy (hungry construction workers make a lunch out of it), but it captures the essence of local flavor as much as boiled lobster does in New England. In other words, it’s good stuff. Or, as Hawaiians would say, it’s "da kine."

Despite the weak economy, Americans still plan to go on vacations in the next few months. According to the U.S. Travel Association, 54% of us will take a summer vacation, compared with 50% last year.

No matter where we go, a growing group of us will be seeking out those very flavors that celebrate local character. In 2007, the International Culinary Tourism Association estimated that 17% of leisure travelers engage in culinary-related activities, and the organization expects that percent to grow to more than 50% in the next few years.

What tourists want to eat while on vacation is important for chefs to consider when developing menus, for tributes to hometowns are also well-received by locals. (If Chicagoans were so inclined, I’d bet they’d call the giardiniera they pile on Italian beef sandwiches "da kine.")

But for some of us, maybe a "staycation" is all we’ll have time for. In that case, here’s a taste of "da kine" from the Four Seasons Resort Hualalai, Ka’upulehu-Kona, Hawaii (a 2003 Ivy-award winner).

New-Style Poke with Ponzu Sauce
Yield: 1 serving

Ahi (yellowfin), small dice    1 oz.
Hamachi (yellowtail), small dice    1 oz.
Salmon, small dice    1 oz.
Avocado, small dice    1 oz.
Green onion, sliced    1 Tbsp.
Onion, small dice    1 Tbsp.
Ogo (Hawaiian seaweed), chopped    1 Tbsp.
Inamona (a seasoning mix of ground candlenut and Hawaiian salt)    1 tsp.
Ponzu sauce (recipe follows)    2-3 Tbsp.
GGCS Mix (recipe follows)    2 Tbsp.
Toasted sesame oil    1 Tbsp.
Vegetable oil    1 Tbsp.
Cucumber, thinly sliced    4-6 slices
Seaweed salad    ¼ cup
Microgreens a handful  
Black sesame seeds    a pinch
White sesame seeds    a pinch

1.    To make the poke, in a small bowl mix together fish, avocado, green onion, onion, ogo and inamona. Add ponzu, GGCS, sesame oil and vegetable oil; mix lightly to combine.

2.    Arrange cucumbers on serving plate; top with poke. Garnish with seaweed, greens and sesame seeds.

Ponzu Sauce

Teriyaki base (recipe follows)     1 qt.
Orange juice    3 Tbsp.
Lime juice    2 Tbsp.
Mirin (a sweetened rice wine)    2 Tbsp.
Rice vinegar    2 Tbsp.
Bottled yuzu juice    1½ Tbsp.

Combine all ingredients; mix well.

Teriyaki Base

Combine all ingredients; mix well.

GGCS Mix

Combine all ingredients; mix well.